A home for those of us to discuss things on food and kitchen. Techniques, tools, tastes and everything in betwixt.
Picture of some oils made with spinzall, with plain oil in front:
Note: Medve Hagyma = Ramson (a type of wild garlic)
When you spun the peppers and stuff did you allow them to settle in a cup or glass. If you do, then you can take a syringe and extract the layer you want, minimizing the water content/particulate matter of what you adding to the oil.
What was the technique you used?
This centrifuge works a bit different from a normal lab centrifuge. Basically you can pump the stuff into it continually - which is how I did the oils.
- Blend oil + herb together
- (Optional) blast it with NO2 in a whipper
- Put some of the mixture in the centrifuge bowl
- Turn on and bring up to speed
- Start pumping the remaining mixture into bowl
- Pump water into bowl to float out remaining oil
- Power down…
- And worst part is the cleaning
This video shows making oil at about 9:30 https://youtu.be/oDNS3rl-Eh0 though I think they put the water in at the beginning - but doing it at the end is better imho.
The tomato and red pepper were not strong enough so I dehydrated them first. There is about 3kg of tomatoes to 600ml of oil. And about 1.5kg of Peppers. Both were dried to a weight of 300gms (which is the max weight of herbs for one cycle before you need to dissemble and clean out the residue).
So no settling just let the centrifuge do its thing…
Some (hopefully) interesting knife sharpening links
IMHO it seems that when you dig a little deeper many of the commonly held views/opinions on how to sharpen may be flawed. Some of the commonly held views are: Creating a burr, and always starting sharpening with a coarse stone.
These are two sites I found that seem to have a well reasoned approach behind what they do. I think they are well worth investigating. The approaches taken to sharpening are different.
Science of sharp - mostly about razors:
This site uses SEM images to investigate how sharpening actually works. Interesting articles on stropping, abrasion, how Jnat slurry breaks down etc etc. (all with SEM images to demonstrate). Some articles come to unexpected conclusions (that appear) to defy logic - for example the progression of DMT diamond plates shows that the coarser plates actually gives a finer finish = finer scratch pattern as demonstrated in the SEM images - the surprising conclusion is that the 325 DMT plate gives a better shaving edge than the 8000 DMT plate (which is probably something that nobody would believe without the SEM images to prove it - and I’m guessing that many people still won’t believe even with the images… ).
Brent Beach’s pages on sharpening plane irons:
This one approaches sharpening from extensive reading/research into metallurgy and metallography as it applies to sharpening. Probably the most interesting thing that keeps addresses is “not sharpening to the edge” of a blade (not making a burr). This is for two reasons you keep the case hardened edge that has been developed, and you don’t create scratches that weaken the edge. So a little more about those scratches that weaken the metal by deformation (see article link below), apparently after polishing out scratches (so the edge looks visually perfect) the weakness remains - and can easily be demonstrated by acid etching which selectively removes the weakened metal (initial work was done on this in the late 1800s - and has been verified many times since - so it appears to be scientifically valid). The solution suggested is (several) microbevels. Bret states that following his sharpening methods allows him to get up to 5x longer use of his irons before they need sharpening again - if this is true it seems worth investigating…
NOTE: It seems to me that the work-hardened edge is probably much less with (kitchen) knives - but the weakening from scratches still applies.
Some selected pages from each site.
From Science of Sharp.
Progression of Diamond plates: result = interesting & counterintuitive
From Brent Beach’s site:
This page discusses metallurgy and grit sizes - in the section “What is the best sharpening system”
And he recommends some books here
This page explains the issues caused by grinding to the edge
I do have a complete set of largest Diasharp DMT stones … from extra coarse to extra extra fine. I can confirm that in the middle there are those bigger scratches probably forming due to those oversized diamonds … though not at rates of one per mm2. the EEF one is a completely different beast … totally smooth. Very nice plate I have to say, and really usefull.
I will have to go through those links and read it all … so many interesting stuff there.
At the moment I am working on a knife sharpening for one local knife maker, so I may get quite a boost in practice soon … with more blades going through my sharpening setup